European researchers have unveiled a game-changing development for the beauty industry: plant-derived cosmetic ingredients that promise sustainability and science-backed skincare benefits. A team from Finland's VTT Technical Research Centre, collaborating with 17 partners across 11 European countries, identified over 25 plant extracts with anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties during a 4.5-year EU-funded study.
The InnCoCells project employed innovative screening methods to analyze 100+ plant extracts against 20 skin biomarkers. Unlike traditional approaches focusing on single compounds, this systematic analysis revealed multiple promising candidates from sources including Danish scurvygrass cell cultures, tropical pepper varieties, and basil root extracts. Researchers particularly noted one extract's triple action against inflammation, ageing, and microbes while maintaining skin compatibility.
"We're bridging nature's wisdom with cutting-edge science," said project coordinator Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey. The ingredients can be sustainably produced through controlled cultivation and agricultural byproducts, aligning with Europe's bioeconomy goals. Commercial development is already underway, with partners exploring scalable production models.
Funded by the EU's Horizon 2020 program with €7.9 million, this research could reshape the $500B+ global cosmetics market as consumers increasingly demand eco-conscious products. The findings offer potential opportunities for Asian markets seeking sustainable beauty solutions and investors tracking green biotechnology trends.
